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Thursday, August 03, 2006





Plans have changed. There is much to be said. Wordiness was promised to be avoided, so we'll do our best.

We arrived in Haines just at the end of the Southeast Alaska State Fair. Our Ferry was actually only going to Haines to pick up the governer from the fair. The ride up to Haines on the boat was increasingly spectacular, with the water turning bluer, the mountains growing taller, and the sun shining bright.

Haines, thus far, is our favorite spot. Cruise ships are not able to stop here, making it less crowded. The town has a strong community feel, surrounded by beautiful jagged mtn peaks. The water there is a glacial green-blue. The town opens up into a deep valley, providing protection from the heavy rainfal we have come to know is typical of the Southeast. It was a quick one-night stay, highlighted by the best halibut fish and chips in the history of the world, in a local joint housing a jukebox heavy with Johnny Cash, Lefty Frizzel, and Pasty Cline.

Leaving Haines we got on the M/V Columbia on our way to Petersburg. However, we are comin' at you from Ketchican, far south of anywhere we planned to stop, (the next stop on the Columbia is Bellingham, WA!) Expecting a 30 hour ride to Petersburg, we woke up to our 2am alarm sleeping on the deck, packing up our sleeping bags with the town's lights in sight. The intercom came on , which we expected to announce our arrival, but instead announced that we had turned around and were headed back to Juneau because one of the two engines had failed. A couple hours, a couple whiskeys, and a few stories from locals regarding the history of the boat (cabin fires, insufficient generators...) later, the captain let us know that we had once again changed route, this time heading for the open ocean with a destination of Ketchican. This is a route never before taken by the Alaska Marine Ferry Highway system. 50 hours after our departure from Haines, we arrived here in Ketchican. We were so happy to walk away from the Columbia, although not happy to leave our many newly found comrades behind (most were en route to Bellingham, and had to stay on the boat---yuck!)

Despite the unfortunate re-routing, this new itinerary has allowed us to see much land not otherwise seen on the ferry system, and has fit our budget well. The ferry system gave us 3 free meals a day on the columbia, and a nice hotel room here in Ketchican. Last night is possibly one out of 35 nights not spent in the tent (the trusty RoadRunner---thanks to Brian and Cindy!)

In case we don't have time to upload pictures and let them speak for themselves, humpback whales have been all over the waterways. While eating free breakfast yesterday morning, for example, there was a momma and baby right out of our window, and about 5 in the distance diving and showing off their tails.

Today we head back up the SE waters to Sitka. We will be on the highway's normal route, which is supposed to be really picturesque (so narrow and curvey you MUST have 2 engines and all generators, --the FULL FIRECRACKER). We will have the opportunity to wave to Petersburg from the ship. In Sitka, we plan on spoiling ourselves royally. We hope to not only see our friend Robin, but also to Kayak to some hotsprings per Uncle John's recommendation (thanks!)

Overall we are totally enjoying ourselves and Alaska. The peole here are so nice. Advice and comments are invited...

Until next time, and who the hell knows when that will be?

D&J

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